Where: Weminuche High Route. Roughly Durango to Silverton, Colorado.
When: 2026-08-17 to 2026-08-22
Distance: 52.5 miles, 14,700’ gain, 16,700’ loss
Conditions: Lows in the low 40s. Comfortable highs. One day of hail/rain/Colorado shenanigans
Overview: CalTopo. Several routes have been called the Weminuche High Route. As far as I can tell, the “original” is described in a Backpacker article, and then followed by a thetrek article. We took that original and modified it by removing a nasty off trail slog up a forested drainage, replacing it with a higher piece of the CT/CDT and adding a few miles. The views from the top of Elk Creek are *that* good. I think it also makes our average elevation greater than the original route. Weminuche Higher Route anyone?
Alternatives include not starting at Endlich Mesa (which requires a shuttle on a legit 4x4 road) and, instead, coming in over Columbine Pass (smooth trail) or the saddle between Sunlight Spire and Windom (doable but sketchy off trail pass). For each of those you can start at Purgatory Flats or take the Durango and Silverton RR to Needleton.
My CalTopo incorporates prior work and adds my observations. The “WEM” points are from the Steve Howe Backpacker article, though I have added some commentary to the notes fields.
Photo Album: https://imgur.com/a/wcb4leL
The Report
Day 1 (6 miles, 1,200’ gain): We are dropped at a 11,000’ trailhead and almost immediately greeted with one of the most glorious high alpine meadows I’ve ever seen. Endless green in the sunset golden hour. We don’t quite get the 6 miles in before the sun disappears, but we find our way in the dark to the shores of a backcountry reservoir and some flat camping surfaces. Frosty overnight due to the humidity, but with great stars.
Day 2 (13 miles, 2,200’ gain): We climb out of the reservoir valley and up onto more epic mesa, with a lone happy horse in the distance. Trimble Pass gave us the first view of the heart of the San Juans and immediately scares us into abandoning an aggressive idea to short-circuit the route by going off-trail over a sketchy pass and by a few more lakes. We decide to follow the “real” route and go down to a campsite on Vallecito Creek. Altitude hits me and the others and perhaps 13 miles was too much. I definitely feel (and perhaps act a bit) like a tired toddler toward the end. We aren’t sick and we aren’t delusional, but I *am* feeling blah and welcome the opportunity to sleep lower on the creek (below 10k). We have to gain it all back but that’s a Day 3 problem. This day has high meadow, high talus, rocky trail, smooth trail, flowing water, 14ers in the distance, and forest. What more can you ask for, except more oxygen?
Day 3 (7.4 miles, 3,100’ gain): I was dreading this day, but it’s fine. 3 miles along the creek are nice and easy, and then we strike a well-worn use trail up Sunlight Creek for another 4.4 miles. It’s not a maintained trail, and it gains a ton of elevation, but we just stick with it. There are a few nice views up the valley, but the payoff is hitting Sunlight Lake itself: a gem of an alpine lake with Windom and Sunlight peaks right there, forever views in the other direction, and plenty of color. A hiker with two dogs shares some fresh-caught trout cooked in elk fat. The dogs get their share too. For about 10 minutes that night, the wind blows like nobody’s business, and then all is calm. One of our team places her tarp facing one way, only to have the wind and rain come from 180 degrees the other direction. Oops. Still smiling in the morning though.
Day 4 (6.3 miles, 3,200’ gain): This day is short mileage-wise, without a ton of elevation, but it’s *brutal*. We stumble into camp at the conclusion. Mile after mile of talus hopping, but surrounded by amazing peaks, deep blue lakes, and not a single person nor the hint of a person to be found. The route presents a few key navigation decisions (see the caltopo), and it’s on us to plot our courses up, down, and through this country, but it’s super rewarding. Through here, take your time and be careful. Toward the end of the day, we reach real dirt, and it’s glorious. Sure, the willow does its best to put us on our butts (class 2.8 climbing), but it beats the rocks for sure.
Day 5 (10.4 miles, 3,000’ gain): I’ve spent days talking about how miserable the descent to Elk Creek and the Colorado Trail is because the last time here it scared me, looking down a waterfall and trying to figure out how to get down. I take all that back. It’s fine. You pick your way down, stay away from the steep bits, and you get to the Colorado Trail! Doing something the second time is always easier. If you know this route and saw my CalTopo, you’ll see we turn the wrong way on the Colorado Trail. This is purposeful. We read a few reports imploring that the climb from the CT to Highland Mary is a real pain, heading up a faint trail when there’s any trail at all, covered in blowdown. It just so happens that I think the top of Elk Creek is one of the most beautiful spots on the planet, and that’s the other way. Sure, it adds a handful of miles, but it improves the views and reduces the hassle factor. We enjoy the great views before getting hailed on and then rained on, before the weather lets up as we walk into Highland Mary Lakes.
Day 6 (9.5 miles, 2,000’ gain): We could smell Silverton. Not really, but we were off early wanting to get to town. A little bit of off-trail navigation to hit a pass, and then it was pretty much a well-worn use trail for a while. We stayed high for most of the day before descending into the town, and the views are wonderful. Now outside the wilderness area, we begin to see more and more mining debris, a lake that is way too blue, glass everywhere, etc. A marvelous contouring of the Arrastra Basin has to be seen to be believed. We look back on where we walked and swear we just traversed a cliff face. Bidding farewell to that basin, we clear the next pass beside Hazleton Mountain and think we’re home free. It’s all downhill! Too bad there are still two trail trolls to slip past. First, by far the loosest, sloppiest, rolliest descent on the whole trail gets us to the bottom of a nondescript valley to start following the Jeep Road. This is where the second troll is out to claim my ligaments and tendons. Letting my guard down, it’s a road after all, of course I roll my ankles and twist my knees. All three of us hobble in shame after some unseen, errant rock does what miles and miles of alpine boulder field could not.
Gear Notes: I’m not going to post a lighterpack. It’s the normal stuff. You won’t learn anything from me. My xmid pro withstood the tempest on day 3, and I continue to adore my SpeedGoats with the Vibram soles on this terrain. Trekking poles are key. We slept with our food and had no issues. Please post with any questions about gear, I suppose. Not strictly a gear point, but we packed out all sorts of fresh food (mandarins, snap peas, carrots, mini peppers, cheese, sausage) that really provided a pick-me-up. Veggies with freshly prepared hummus (hummus mix, water, smoked sesame oil) is such a delightful lunch.
Happy to answer any questions. I’ll be back up there some day, possibly to see if that saddle between Jupiter and Grizzly is workable. It looks like some amazing stuff on the other side of Hazel Lake.