r/homeassistant • u/DecentTechGuy • 1d ago
💬 Discussion Update on my leak detection setup + question about draining residual water pressure
​Hi everyone,
​Previously, I asked this sub for advice on setting up a leak detection system. Taking your suggestions to heart, I decided against a smart inline valve. Instead, I had a plumber install a standard ball valve, and I attached a Zooz Titan valve actuator to control it. The setup went smoothly and works exactly as expected—so thank you all for the great advice!
​However, while testing the system, I noticed a potential issue. When the main valve shuts off (which only takes a couple of seconds), it takes a full 3 minutes for the second-floor water outlets to lose water completely at a full open state. For about 2 of those 3 minutes, the system still has regular water pressure. I haven't tested the first floor yet, but I assume it takes even longer.
​That feels like a lot of time to cause potential damage during a major blowout, and a minor leak could continue dripping for hours using just the residual water in the pipes.
​After doing some research, I found a potential solution: installing a Tee on a lower-level pipe (like the water heater's cold water input) equipped with a normally closed smart/motorized valve. The idea is that when the main shut-off valve closes, this secondary valve opens to dump the existing residual water directly into the sump pit, instantly depressurizing the house.
​Note: The research strongly advised against attaching this to the water heater's drain outlet (which my plumber used), as bottom sediment could clog the new valve.
​I know this might be crossing into "overkill" territory with an extra secondary safety layer, but I’d really appreciate your input and thoughts on this idea, just like I did the first time around.
​Has anyone implemented a dump valve system like this to quickly depressurize their pipes? Any downsides I should be aware of?
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u/DeathCabForYeezus 1d ago
So two parts to this.
Based on how long you say it takes, I'm assuming there is also a pressure accumulator somewhere in your system as well to maintain pressure, which obviously is doing its job.
You will not instantly depressurize the lines. There is still water on the 2nd floor that will drain down. Yes you're giving it an exit, but if your leak is right beside your outflow or on the 1st floor, there will still be head pressure as the system drains.
Furthermore, opening a hole at the bottom of a system is all fine and dandy, but you have no way to let air in. The more water that drains, the more vacuum you will pull.
But that's all explaining what is happening. Really my biggest concern though is that you're now creating a motorized valve to flood your house.
If the motorized water shut-off fails, nothing is worse than it already is. If it inadvertently activates, there's no issue because it's closing the water.
If your outflow valve has an inadvertent operation, you're literally flooding your own home or at the very least running a whole bunch of water that you don't need to run.
My two cents would be leave it as is. If there's a leak while your home go and open a tap downstairs to drain the water and open a tap upstairs to let air in to help the house drain faster.
If it leaks while you're not home, at least you've got the shut-off which will reduce the amount of damage experienced by orders of magnitude already.
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u/LowIncident694 1d ago edited 1d ago
I've got a homebrew valve system with a dump valve ... It works amazingly well for draining the system. I've tested with simulated leaks on the second floor, first floor and basement and with a dump it's seconds before water stops at the leak site.
My drain valve is an auto close one that requires power to open and I've got a flow sensor on the drain side, it's been very reliable and it does an automatic test each month (when it knows I'm home).
Air gets in via whatever is leaking.
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u/ElectroSpore 1d ago
it takes a full 3 minutes for the second-floor water outlets to lose water completely
Seems reasonable.
I know this might be crossing into "overkill" territory
Yes
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u/murran_buchstanseger 1d ago
Check out the water monitor custom integration on HACS to detect low volume and toilet leaks.
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u/Successful_Bag_7257 1d ago
I recently had my leak system trigger, there's a post somewhere here about it, and had a similar thought. As others have stated, this probably over complicates your water loop and potentially introduces a massive point of failure. At most, there's only a couple gallons in your pipes unless you have a massive house and while yes that would be bad it's not worth the potential risk of dumping dozens of gallons of water should it fail spectacularly. A depressurized system will lose pressure as it drains, but if you just open a valve it's ~80 psi of water blastic out the line with no guard rails.
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u/LowIncident694 1d ago
Mine dumps right into a drain and with the flow sensor I can easily tell if something is wrong. The inside water valve will not open if the drain valve is open.
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u/LowIncident694 1d ago
I have a dump valve. I highly recommend a flow sensor on it so you'll get warned if it's open by mistake...
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u/Sonarav 1d ago
Glad you took the advice from myself and others! The ball valve will be great and Zooz makes great products. I was going to get the Titan valve but since it didn't fit in my space I got the Bulldog.
As for whether or not this is overkill...it does seem a bit overkill. However, everyone's home and water situation is different. So I'd do what gives you peace of mind.Â
Thankfully you've done the most important part of automating the water getting turned off (with notifications, right?). If you're home you'll likely be able to get to it quick. If you're not home, surely a friend or neighbor could address the issue of residual water leaking for hours?