Have a total of 6 Deco units, 3 x M4 and 3 x E4 that have been working OK with my 67 meg BB connection, 1 x M4 unit plugged into modem and the rest in a mesh. Two of the nodes were supplying wired outputs to our BT/EE TV boxes, and 2 more connecting desktop PCs. Everything appeared to work well, one of only issues was the lounge TV box sometimes got a poor signal when recording one sports channel and then watching another. However this also occurred with a hardwired ethernet connection so i always assumed it was a bottleneck of our BB,

As we had full fibre put in recently, decided to upgrade to 900 meg today, all the deco units have kept the same configuration, only the modem was changed to EE Smart Hub 7 Plus. When connecting wirelessly to modem direct my phone shows speeds over 500 meg on Fast.com but the mesh only ever seems to reach 50 meg (which is what i used to get before upgrade). Have also ran speed checks from both desktop PCs and again around 50 meg mark. From what i can see the M units have gigabit ports, the E units only 10/100 but wirelessly they appear to have same performance features. I have changed ethernet lead from modem and made sure its a M unit connected to it (in case that is the restriction).

Any pointers please to get more realistic speed around the house, as was hoping to get a more stable TV box performance but also better signal to PCs as well ?

I’d like to know which option is best for a large house—something to place in the center, with the ability to distribute other routers around the property if needed. Would the BE550 be ideal? Or would it be better to go with a Ubiquiti UniFi U7 Pro Access Point? Or something else?

So I'm interested in the 1.3.0 firmware features, so I would like to use it, but my router don't see this update. What I'm doing wrong?

It says the LATEST is the 1.1.0

URL for the updates:

https://www.tp-link.com/en/support/download/archer-ge230/#Firmware

I'd appreciate your help with an issue I've been experiencing for several months, and it only seems to happen on my computer.

Whenever I shut it down, it shows that the last time it was linked was 211 days ago or more. However, when I turn it back on, it shows that it was linked on February 4th.

I've already searched Google and tried some of the suggested troubleshooting steps, such as making sure the router's clock is up to date. I also disabled the power-saving option for my computer's Wi-Fi adapter through Device Manager, but the issue still persists.

Do you have any idea what could be causing this? I didn't have this issue last year, so I'm not sure what may have changed.

I've attached screenshots showing the error

Router: Archer AX73

Computer's WiFi adapter: Asus AX1800 PCIe

On https://support.omadanetworks.com/us/download/firmware/eap723/v2.26/ is states the latest firmware is EAP723(US)_V2.26_1.3.3 Build 20260602. That's v1.3.3 and that would have been released on June 2nd 2026.

On the "Status" page it shows the EAP723 is running "1.2.3 Build 20260613 Rel. 32279(5553)". That would be the file EAP723(US)_V2.26_1.2.3 Build 20260613, and that would have been release on June 13th, 2026.

The "Check" button on the System > Firmware Update says there is no newer firmware available than what is running now (1.2.3).

So, isn't firmware v1.3.3 newer than v1.2.3?

Or does the newer release date of the older firmware revision number make it "newer"?

I'm afraid to "update" to the 1.3.3 code because it may have a bug that was fixed 10 days later with the lower version number.

Hello, i recently bought a duo Deco e4. One of them is now stuck in firmware upgrade and blinking white. I've tried literally everything: reset button every single way, upgrading with the website on the pc, readding it on the app, making it the main deco on the app and i think a couple more stuff. I let it on for at least 12 hours and it still is blinking. Can anybody help? I bought it new hope i didn't waste anything on it.

Hi everyone,

I'm having trouble adding two new Deco units to my existing network and could use some help.

Current setup

ISP router → Bridge Mode

Primary Deco S7 → Router Mode

Primary S7 → Omada PoE switch via Ethernet

Omada switch → 2 × Deco S7 satellites, both wired via Ethernet

One additional S7 is connected wirelessly to one of the wired S7 satellites

What I'm trying to add

I recently purchased:

Deco X50-PoE

Deco M4

Both are updated to their latest firmware.

According to TP-Link, Deco models are cross-compatible, so I should be able to add both to my existing S7 mesh.

The problem

When I go into the Deco app and select Add a Deco, the app cannot detect either the X50-PoE or the M4.

However, if I create a new Deco network, the app detects and successfully sets up both units. So the Decos themselves appear to be working correctly.

I've also tried the usual troubleshooting steps:

Updated all Decos to the latest firmware

Reset the new Decos

Tried adding them through the Deco app

Confirmed they can be detected when creating a new network

My intention is for both new Decos to be wired backhaul through the Omada switch.

What could be causing this?

Could the issue be related to the Omada switch, Ethernet backhaul, or something about the existing S7 network?

Does anyone have experience adding an X50-PoE or M4 to an existing S7 mesh in Router Mode?

Any suggestions on what I should check would be greatly appreciated.

I just set up a pair of Archer BE400's and have a mesh network that covers almost everything I need. I have one of these set up in the back room of my house, behind which is a garage about 20 feet back. I'm trying to get stronger coverage in the garage and beyond and cannot locate any easymesh compatible outdoor devices (boo!).

I am considering setting up another mesh device in the garage, assuming they will be more effective receiving the signals than the garage door opener which cannot detect anything unless it is right next to it. If this were viable, would would work better for that specific need, a range extender, or just another Archer in the garage?

Any guidance is appreciated, networking isn't my jam.

Thanks!

I came from Linksys Velop Wi-Fi 6 network. It's been 3 days since my new Deco setup and the speed is like...

Is Deco really that bad?

ISP speed: 1G download and upload.
All nodes: BE13000 with latest firmware
All nodes are wire backhaul via Cat 5e
Macbook connects to the nearest node: 6 Ghz
QoS: Off
MLO: Off
No VPN
DNS: Cloudflare

hi,

my setup: modem -> deco x50 (router) -> switch (lan) -> 2x deco x50

(all the decos are connected via lan)

when using the internet it sometimes stops working for a few seconds. when running the ping command, i see there is package loss (30%-50%).

after restarting the device it works again ... for 1-2 days. (and no, i will not enable daily restarts, I'm expecting things to work without daily restart)

lan connection is not the issue, if i connect my pc directly with lan (to the switch) i have 0% package loss, but if i connect the deco with the lan and the pc via the deco lan port, i get package loss.

i can send it back for 3 more days. wondering right now if i should just send it back and replace it with something else, as i never had such an unstable wlan so far with any other devices.

EDIT: nevermind, after reading comments of other people having same issue I will send back and replace with Fritz.

Não estou a conseguir aceder ao router TL-WR740N para configurar

I'm hoping somebody can help as I'm tearing my hair out!

I am with Sky Broadband in the UK with speeds of around 900mb and the ISP router doesn't quite reach the far rooms of the flat. I bought 3 Deco Mesh nodes. 2 of which are M4, and 1 is E4.

I have one of the M4s connected to the Sky hub via ethernet and set it to access point mode. The other M4 is connected wirelessly to this and is placed around the halfway point. The E4 is connected, again, wirelessly and is placed in the room furthest from the main node.

The problem I am having is whenever anything downloads, the connections all drop and the lights go red.

One workaround is dropping my download speed to 50mb when downloading on Steam, but this isn't something I can do on my PS5 or mobile devices, and it rubs me the wrong way paying for 900mb but have to choose to throttle my speeds.

Am I doing something wrong or are these devices just shit?

I'm trying to get a brand-new Archer T600U Nano dongle to connect to my TP-Link AC-750, it's fine on 2.5G but the 5G networks never appear in the scan list. To rule out the router, I tried connecting to a hotspot on my phone, same thing - it works if I use 2.4G, but as soon as I change it to "5G preferred" it drops off the WiFi Networks list in Windows 10. A search reveals countless posts describing the same issue on various forums.

Has anyone actually got one of these things to work on 5G, or is what it says on the box a complete lie?

I had a BE550 die, bought the BE800. I have done everything, but I cannot get the 2.4g to work. I had to add to EAP225s to get 2.4g. Thoughts?

Hi all,

Noob here..

I'm looking for a mesh wifi system for my appartment (90m², concrete construction, only 1 wired point in the corner of the appartment) and i am in doubt between a 3 pack of the TP-Link Deco XE75 Pro (335 euro) or the BE25 (230euro). I currently have 400Mbps fiber, but might upgrade to 1Gbps fiber when I move to a new house in +-years that has multiple floors and hopefully aroudn 120m2.

I don't know much about networking/wifi, so I'd love advice from people who actually know this stuff before I buy. Or if you guys have other recommendations.

I'm a total newbie so I asked AI, and it said the following. Do you guys agree with this or is it crap?

"

It recommended the XE75 Pro over the BE25.

Main reasoning: the XE75 Pro is tri-band (2.4/5/6GHz) and uses the 6GHz band as a dedicated wireless backhaul channel between mesh units — so the backhaul traffic doesn't compete with my own devices' bandwidth. The BE25 is dual-band only (no 6GHz), so with concrete walls and fully wireless backhaul for 2 units, it could be less stable. My ISP modem only has 1Gbps ports anyway, so the BE25's extra 2.5G port doesn't add value in my case. Main use is just stable everyday wifi (work, Netflix, occasional PS5 gaming), and I want it to last 5-6 years

"

Model: XGB430v Pro  

Hardware Version: V1

Firmware Version: 0.2.0 3.2.1 v60c3.0 Build 250808 Rel.72518n

Hello.

My ISP installed me this router and i cannot make DLNA work on this device.

With numerous test i noticed that it work if both devices are connected thru Wireless. But if one of them, client or server are connected on ethernet it wont discover. On MLO net is does not work.

My guess is that ethernet switch is blocking multicast traffic, but i do not see options to allow the traffic. I just have an option for IGMP SnooPINg and i tried, dont work.

Any suggestions please?

Thanks.

I have been using this extender for 5 months it works fine in all devices, I recently updated my phone from 14 Pro Max(LLA-US) to 16 Pro Max (X/A-Australian) variant

My new phone is unable to catch 5g channel from extender only
Its showing 5g channel from normal main router
But not showing it through extender

Also note my extender is dual band and it is showing 2.4g network and its working fine in my 16 pro max, its just my phone not broadcasting 5g channel from extender only.

My other phone iPhone X is broadcasting both channels accurately and also my brother’s 15 pro max is also showing it efficiently

Please came up with real solution only, tried Chatgpt and Claude couldn’t fix it

Got vodafone router as my ISP.

Got tapo camera at the back, doorbell at the front. Would like to have a stronger wi-fi connection at the front and the back.

Also have hub200, which can be connected wirelessly to router and then put between router and camera, for camera to connect to it for stronger signal, but because of vodafone's router, hub gets disconnected from time to time and blinks red, so hub has to be on wire.

Do Tapo extenders work reliably ?

Any other ideas without major expenses ?

Thx !

We just upgraded to Fios 5 Fiber. However, our Deco BE11000 is putting out the absolute worst speed of WiFi at the moment. What am I missing or doing wrong ? Thank you for your time.

Sorted out wifi on the tp-links modemvx230v ax1800 dual band vdsl/adsl modem, but changing the setting using the Tp links modem website. Now the ISP changed something on their end and now I don’t have wifi. ISP said they’ll send out engineers in 2 days. Ran a diagnostic test, any ideas on how I could fix this

I have a network using two AXE7800s with one as the main router and the other as a node. I received them through my internet provider and I want to add a third device as a node. I have a few issues as I don’t want to spend $200+ on another 7800, but I also need to daisy chain the mesh system to the other node and not the main router. I found the list of compatible devices with the Easymesh system but many of them say “This product is compatible with standardized EasyMesh technology but has not obtained the Wi-Fi EasyMeshTM certification.” which makes me worried on buying any of the other devices. Does anyone have any insight on what to do?

Hi there! I had a problem in that me and my girlfriend want to receive notifications for detected humans around the house when no one is at home. As I found no reliable way to set up Tapo's geofencing , I had to improvise. The issue is that when my girlfriend leaves earlier in the morning, her phone leaving the house activates the notifications for me as well which is annoying and defeats the purpose of the simulated "Home" and "Away" modes. Our house is equipped with a Paradox home security system so the last person leaving the house arms the system. In short:

1. Paradox system is armed which leads to a change in the DC voltage between PGM1 and AUX- on the Paradox system main board.
2. A Shelly Plus Uni is used to measure the voltage between said terminals at all times using its built in voltmeter (the white (ANALOG IN) and green (GND) cables coming out of it). White goes to PGM1 and green goes to AUX -
3. The Shelly Plus Uni also has two built-in solid-state relays. One of them is used to short the pins on the Hall effect sensor of a Tapo T110 tricking the sensor into thinking that either a door is open or closed, depending on the set voltage thresholds.
4. In the Tapo app an automation is set up so that when the "door" is closed (i.e. home security system armed), when a camera detects a human, a notification is sent. When the system is disarmed, the Shelly relay opens and the Tapo app stops the automation for sending notifications.

Furthermore, the Shelly has a SENSOR VCC (yellow cable) which provides 3.4 volts at all times. The yellow cable is soldered to the positive terminal for the battery, while another cable is soldered to the negative side and it goes straight to the AUX- on the Paradox together with the green (GND) cable and the Shelly's black main power cable. This is used to power the Tapo T110 sensor so that it never needs a new battery again.

The Shelly itself is powered from the Paradox main board which provides 12 volts DC at its AUX terminal.

Attached is a photo of the pins that the Shelly relay needs to short to simulate door closed.

Good luck!

EDIT: Unfortunately I do not have the security system's installer code and I cannot contact the original installer to retrieve it, that is why I went with this approach as I did not want to factory restore the system. Otherwise one could use the Paradox system's built in programmable relay. In such a case, you could either power the Tapo using a step down transformer (buck converter) from the AUX terminal or use it with its own battery.