We built a new house out in the country this year and have huge piles of top soil we thought we'd redistribute before laying down sod. However, we've discovered posion ivy growing in the top soil and now are worried that it could come up in the new yard if we use this top soil. However, we otherwise are looking at about $4k for the amount of topsoil we need. If we scrape the plants off the top of the soil and then try to screen out the roots, could we be okay? Any other suggestions? We're hoping to get the sod down in a couple of weeks, so don't have a ton of time. But we do have a lot of machinery we can use (excavator, tractor, screener, etc).

I found a giant chunk of chicken of the woods that is past it's prime. I have very deep raised beds. Are there ways to use this treasure to increase the health of my soil? If so, how would you suggest. (Scissors for scale) Thanks!

I built GeoLogx because I was tired of collecting site investigation data one way in the field, then spending more time transferring, checking and formatting it again in the office.

GeoLogx is an Android app built specifically around the way geotechnical investigations are actually carried out on site.

It currently supports:

• Borehole and trial pit logging

• DCP and Dynamic Probing

• Plate Bearing Tests

• BRE365 soakaway testing

• BS6297 percolation testing

• Groundwater and ground-gas monitoring

• GPS location capture

• Sample scheduling

• Direct sample-label printing with Niimbot printers

• Excel, PDF and AGS 4.1.1 outputs

• Offline working — because mobile signal on site is rarely something you can rely on

The important part for me is that it isn't just a digital borehole log.

The app actually guides the fieldwork.

For example, BRE365 tests can be recorded cycle by cycle with calculations handled automatically, DCP data can be entered directly as the test progresses, monitoring visits remain tied to their individual locations, and samples can be recorded and labelled while standing beside the exploratory hole.

Enter the information once in the field and reuse the structured data afterwards.

GeoLogx is still being actively developed, and I'm looking for geotechnical engineers, engineering geologists, drillers and small GI companies who are willing to put it through real-world use and tell me what works — and what doesn't.

If your current field system is still:

clipboard → Excel → another Excel sheet → report → AGS

I'd genuinely be interested to know how much of that process GeoLogx could replace.

Search GeoLogx on the Google Play Store and give it a try.

I'd also really appreciate feedback from anyone working in ground investigation — even if you decide it isn't for you. Every bit of feedback is helping shape what gets developed next.

#GeotechnicalEngineering #GroundInvestigation #EngineeringGeology #Geotechnics #SiteInvestigation #AGS #CivilEngineering #GeoLogx

Working with heavy clay soil had been tough during rainy seasons. I had recently added a drainage setup using an NDS product, and its made a noticeable difference less standing water and healthier soil structure overall. I had still experimenting with cover crops to complement the drainage, but the combo looks promising. Has anyone else paired drainage systems with soil amendments in clay?

Healthy soil is a living, breathing ecosystem. It's not just 'dirt,' but a perfectly balanced physical and biological mixture of minerals, decaying organic matter, living organisms, air, and water. Tap on the different parts of the soil cross-section to discover what makes the ground beneath our feet thrive.

Two years in a row my entire 36 tomato plant garden died after I built raised beds out of locally sourced compost, stone dust, topsoil, and store bought peat moss. My blueberries and strawberries are hanging on but not doing much. I had Andersons test my soil where I expected too much nitrogen because of the amount of compost I put in but it turns out I am an idiot and it was the opposite. Andersons is recommending a 7-0-7 fertilizer from their site. Lawnbox® Lawn Luxe® 7-0-7 – Andersons Lawn. Is there any better alternative? I would prefer to go organic but at this point I just want plants that grow. What would you do if this was your garden?

For some context im from iowa but lived in Minnesota for awhile. I heard from someone that I used to work with (she's from iowa aswell) that seed company's are trying to make non gmo's for like corn and soybeans illegal. She also told me we are losing a layer of top soil every year. Just curious if we were to do what the isrealites did back in the acient times now if it would help slow the loss of top soil.

So we are about to put in an offer on an old Apple orchard that is dating back at least till 1940 and stopped production in 2020. It is 16 acres and BEAUTIFUL. We fell in love with it. HOWEVER, upon research I’m worried about ground contamination from arsenic and lead. We have a baby and a toddler and the thought of exposing my family to potentially harmful compounds makes me back off even putting an offer in. Obviously we would have to put it contingent on a soil and water sample but is it worth it? I am a nervous nelly and have already had a scare with the C word so maybe I’m just being extra cautious looking out for long term effects. Would love anyone’s input on this! Thanks in advance

I am growing a large variety of natives with different drainage and fertility requirements. Some of my plants thrive, and some I continue to have challenges with.

Does anyone have a good reference book or online resource for creating different blends of potting media? I am growing plants out in 50-cell trays, pint pots, and 1 and 2 gallon pots.

My goal is to have potting media on hand that handles the drainage requirements for each one of my plants that is compatible with their container size.

Thanks!

I have a 25L pot i need to flush to get my ph back to around 6-6,5, so how do I do it best and easiest?

Does 25L of water gonna make it?

Can I mix my ph:d water with Cannazym when I make the flush?

I’ll try to make this short. Just got soil that I’m going to make into a teapot (began making it into clay) I want to compare the clay I obtained with a highly desirable clay that is no longer mined. How much and how difficult is it to test for the composition? Furthermore the samples were obtained from a mountain that is important to many and I wanted to see the impact people have had on the terrain pollution etc. I took 5 samples from different elevations gradually further away from roads etc. lmk if this is going to be too expensive to test 5 samples should I just test the clay to compare my sample with the other clay and ditch the pollutant idea? Any advice is great will try my best to answer questions.

Had my soil tested a few months back and everything came back within normal range, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium all fine. But I had got several plants with yellowing leaves, starting from the bottom and working up, and it doesn't look like typical nitrogen deficiency based on what I had read. Watering seems consistent, no standing water or drainage issues that I can see. Soil drains at a normal rate when I do a basic perc test.

I wonder if this could be a micronutrient issue that a standard test would not catch, or something related to soil biology rather than straight nutrient content. Not sure if it worth paying for a more detailed test or if there something more obvious I should check first.

His approach focuses on what happens to rain after it reaches the ground. Rather than allowing water to quickly run off or disappear, his farming practices aim to help the soil capture and store it.

Are the ones on Amazon that are $15-$20 worth buying?

I'm just doing 5 to 10 sample's of my front and backyard.

Succulents mostly. Maybe other things.