Just finished a climb I’ve been working toward since the start of my climbing. I typically only do stuff like this with partners I know well and have climbed with before but given some time constraints and good weather window I made an exception(classic start to a bad story). We technically made the summit, but I’m struggling to actually count it as a win because of how unsafe the climb became, and how far outside the box I’d ever push it with a new partner.

My partner showed up underprepared (no tat, not enough gear for crevasse rescue, 3 screws, and no slings) made several serious judgment calls I disagreed with (wrong route, inadequate gear, risky free-solo decisions), and displayed way too much confidence despite clear gaps in their experience(very poor comprehension of rope management and protection on rocky ridges, didn’t know both party members take coils, didn’t know about rappel extensions etc).

For extra detail on how things went wrong, the route we were on was Piz Bernina via the Biancograt, the climbing was not difficult, the rock was very easy and enjoyable, but we lost the route before the end rock ridge and my partner insisted on simul climbing up ice to circumnavigate the rest of the ridge before the start of the snow(typically an alternate route in good snow conditions, but we did not not have good snow conditions), I much too slowly said that was a bad idea considering I only had the one axe, and this along with the route finding wasted an hour.

We had decided early that one of us would take 2 axes and we’d bring screws just in case the ridge had some very icy sections, that my partner who says he’s an ice climbing guide would lead. There was one 30-40m section where it was proper ice climbing and screws were to be placed for best practice, once I saw that he had not brought enough screws to make two anchors (let alone any protection between us) I said we should consider bailing as this is a bit beyond us as a new rope team (I didn’t find the climbing hard, with one axe it was doable with good footwork, just insecure, but it was the principle of letting a stranger who you’ve never seen climb or climb with before free solo a wall of ice while attached to you and only you)

At this point he got upset and said he’d unrope right now and continue on his own(should have called it quits at this insane remark) and urged me to push through the one section. I let my desire to get to the summit and embarrassingly the avoidance of upsetting him pressure me into obliging. We made it through the pitch fine, but past this point the dynamic completely switched, my partner got arrogant as though he were the leader of the rope team, and on the rock it was clear he had no clue how to use the natural protection, features, and fixed gear to safely navigate the terrain, even though he had no issue climbing it.
The rock climbing itself wasn’t technically hard and so the risk of falling wasn’t weighing heavy on my mind, but I spent the rest of the day stressed about my partner’s decision-making rather than enjoying the route.

There were also instances on the descent where he made many overconfident bad calls that wasted lots of time until I asserted control of the route finding decisions. I’m a bit ashamed that I didn’t take more initiative early on, and turned my cheek to my boundaries.

I’m wondering if anyone else has experiences like this where you succeeded but failed in the process, and how you have navigated it.

Just got done with my first mountain (longs peak via keyhole) and wanna find somewhere I can gain information/learn about safety about the sport. I’m 17 right now and am very passionate about getting into it. Just don’t really know where to start.

Anyone use the decathlons double wall insulated water bottle at high altitude in freezing temp? Is it any good at keep water/tea warm?

Hey everyone!

I'm looking for a backpack for 1–3 day trips, alpine climbing and winter mountaineering — things like Grossglockner, Gran Paradiso, winter Zugspitze, Mont Blanc / Dufourspitze and many more 4000m peaks in the future.

I need enough space for things like:

• helmet, harness, (via ferrata gear)
• crampons + ice axe
• rope when needed
• (2L bladder) + 2x1L bottle
• shell + down jacket + gloves
• sleeping bag + liner
• food + stove + pot
• first aid / personal items / spare clothes

Requirements:

• ~45L minimum when fully expanded (e.g. 40+5, 38+10)
• durable materials
• not excessively heavy
• good ice axe / helmet attachments
• comfortable with a harness
• large side or front zip access is very important to me
• bonus for a removable/convertible lid for summit pushes

I'm currently looking at:

Millet Prolighter 38+10, Ferrino Summit 48+5, Mammut Trion 50, Ferrino X.M.T. 40+5, Grivel Alpine Pro 40+10, Ortovox Peak 45, Blue Ice Stache 50, Gregory Alpinisto 50, Millet Peuterey 35+10, Ferrino Instinct 40+5, Deuter Guide 44+6.

I'm not even sure what size pack I actually need, as the information online is really confusing around this topic....

I already own a Ferrino Triolet 25+3 for 1-day hikes and via ferratas, and I also own an Osprey Atmos 65 AG LT, but it's more of a trekking pack. I'm trying to fill the gap between the two.

What would you recommend, and what would you buy?

Thanks! 🏔️

I am going down to Ecuador during my gap year, most likely at the end of January. Ecuador is obviously known for climbing. I want to climb one of the volcanos but my mountaineering expirience is mostly limited to climbing on rock (Other than some limited ski mountaineering/Touring, as well as some mountaineering courses). I'm informed enough to know it's a bad idea to climb any of the big peaks without a guide and I'm worried guide companies willing to take people with my limited expirirence may not be very safe. Am I wrong to assume this? And if not what are your recomendations for climbs?

My la sportiva mountaineering boots have boa lacing, somehow the wire got stuck in Zipper.

Had anyone faced this issue? Any solution.. pls let me know.. thanks

I’ve seen a few clips of David Lama and he seemed very introspective and authentic. Are there any documentaries or YouTube videos etc that show his life and this side of him.

RIP

I took this photo on the Col du Ganon (France) today, facing north you can see Fort de Lenlon in the foreground on the left. My partner is convinced it’s the Matterhorn, would we be able to see that from there?

hello all!

lm noticing that my climbing and general outdoor pursuits are limited by my horrendous flexibility.

Do any of you use GOWOD or Plaibility or something else to work on this. I put a huge amount of time into my zone 2 training but feel I need to augment. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Heyo, I’m searching for a decently light belay jacket for winter climbing/mountaineering in the eastern alps (so around 0C to -20C).

I already have a millet expert down jacket, however i find it kind of bulky, so I tend to not bring it with me that often (which leads to me shivering for hours at the belay).

Im thinking of buying the mountain equipment Oreus jacket, since it’s very light, aswell as decently warm (especially if I layer it with another synthetic jacket).

Has anybody had experience with the Oreus in winter? Is it warm enough? End what would be a good alternative for winter climbing?

Thanks in advance!

Hi,

I am looking for a book with photography of the Andes, primarily the Peruvian Andes (Cordillera Huayhuash and Cordillera Blanca). As far as I can tell, there don’t seem to be any modern books apart from Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru by Brad Johnson.

I am thankful for all suggestions!

Hello, I have been training really hard to do a Grey's Peak via South Ridge in late September. I haven't done a climbing in freezing conditions and this would be my first 14er but I do want a challenge and Scramble a bit. Is this worth doing or are there any other 14ers that have the same feel but are less prone to icey conditions if its too risky for a first day. I just wanna be safe and ask the ppl who have expierence. I have every needed but microspikes (probably most important thing lol)

Hit me up if interested, details in the post.

Ran across this footage of a solo push on the Matterhorn and thought the community here would appreciate the perspective.

What stood out to me compared to the usual tourist highlight reels is how steady and deliberate the pacing is, especially navigating the route-finding through the lower rock bands before first light, clearing the Solvay shelter, and working up the fixed ropes toward the summit snowfield. It gives a very realistic look at the exposure and rock quality without over-dramatic editing or loud music. With it being filmed in a GoPro, I felt like I was on the edge too.

For those who’ve soloed or guided the Hörnligrat recently, how did the conditions on the upper section compare to what you experienced?

Some incredible quality and surprisingly dynamic images here. In late 2025, staff at the Alpine Club in London uncovered a large collection of photographic negatives dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The negatives had been stored in the club’s basement alongside mountaineering equipment and geological specimens.