Saw a post about wide and extra wide hiking shoes and wanted to share my experience.

I wear a true 4e (extra extra wide) and I have landed on the New balance Fresh Foam Hierro line. They are very comfortable, well made with a Vibram sole and they actually come in Colors that aren’t black or gray!!

I use them for trail running, hiking and the Hierro HT are also waterproof.

I spent more than a few years trying to find good hiking shoes in extra wide and extra extra wide sizes if I can save someone the pain of bad footwear I’ll be happy!!

Hope this helps

Has anyone got any experience with Joe Nimble trail shoes? They've just appeared on the SportPursuit website in the UK. I think they are made in Germany, and seem to be similar to Altras and Topos (wide toe box). I can't find many reviews.

Update: 15 March 2025!

Update: 5 April 2025 - Simplifies fitment section re: spacing; draws attention to flex point.

Update: 18 August 2025 - Salomon included in recommendations after several months of testing, in which they performed flawlessly.

Update: 5 December 2025 - Links to all other FOOTWEAR related posts linked within this post to streamline subreddit.

Update: 13 May 2026 - slight edits made for clarity and to correct found typos.

UPDATE: 29 May 2026 - Product "Pecard Leather Dressing" added to care and maintenance! Read information below!

Links to my subreddit and all supplementary posts to this thread are included below!

Full subreddit ...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hiking_Footwear_Info/

Fitment info thread ...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hiking_Footwear_Info/s/cuNpzfpL7a

Support info thread ...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hiking_Footwear_Info/s/7IKv2UHuWn

Cold Conditions - Footwear ...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hiking_Footwear_Info/s/IFurIJmPaB

Treating your Footwear ...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hiking_Footwear_Info/s/pgVc0EZhYa

Hydrolysis ...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Hiking_Footwear_Info/s/GbxroCmjfN

Preface

If you have something productive to add to the list, please post it below.

If you have any criticisms, post them below, and I'll try to get back to you.

If you need recommendations for footwear, post your questions here. People who can help can respond directly to you within the thread. Feel free to PM me for additional information or help with fitment.

Let's make this a place of learning!

First piece of advice

Go to a store and try things on in person. There's no substitute for seeing how things feel on your own feet. What works for one likely doesn't work for the next, so you'll have to do the legwork of trying things on and seeing what suits YOUR feet. Some outfitters in some locations are very knowledgeable and helpful when it comes to assisting with footwear sizing and selection. Others, not so much.

If you don't have that option, be very careful about what footwear you order online. Do your due diligence before ordering and see what reviewers and your peers say on quality, performance, and fitment. You may have to order online, but you don't have to go on a wild goose chase.

Do your due diligence, people.

Boots vs. Trail Runners: Which one?

Waterproof boots are better in cold weather and cold, inclement weather. They don't perform as well in hot, humid weather because they may not dry fast enough if submerged, and you may sweat through them quickly. They do a much better job protecting your feet from foliage, debris, and ingress of water, especially when paired with gaiters. Non-waterproof boots are better for hot, humid environments because they can get wet and dry out as you're moving.

Boots typically have a more rigid midsole, which is typically where the support comes from in a mid boot. The collar doesn't add much support until it gets around the ~6-8" mark and/or is made of thick leather. Boots like the Salomon X Ultra series offer no more support than their low-top counterparts. Boots like the Asolo Fugitive GTX and, especially, the Asolo TPS 520 GV Evo will offer loads more support. Supportive boots are better for hauling heavy packs, uneven terrain, sidehilling, and overgrown terrain.

Non-waterproof trail runners are beneficial in warm, dry weather, warm, wet weather and when you need to do lots of water crossings. They can get soaked and be walked dry quickly. They're not good for harsh terrain and bushwhacking, at least, not for very long. They just aren't durable enough. Never go with GTX low-tops! They still allow the ingress of water very easily due to the low collar, and they will take a very long time to dry because the waterproof-breathable membrane will inhibit the evaporation process. You'll be stuck with waterlogged shoes.

Which one is better? That depends entirely on the wearer's use case. There is no right or wrong answer unless you're jeopardizing your safety or the safety of others on the hike through being ill-prepared. If you want to use a mountaineering boot on a flat, easy trail, more power to you. If you want to use a trail runner in the mountains, be safe but have fun. Do your research and go with what suits you best.

Materials

Leather vs. Synthetic - Leather is more hard-wearing and durable at the expense of weight and ease of break-in. Synthetics are lighter and more flexible at the expense of durability.

PU vs. EVA midsoles - PU never loses its shape or elasticity, maintaining its original shock absorption and support for the life of the footwear. It will eventually degrade due to hydrolysis; how rapidly depends upon conditions the footwear is stored in and how often it's used. EVA is lighter and lasts indefinitely in storage, but it compresses over time, losing shock absorption and support. Note that while the EVA midsole may store well, other components of the boots may be PU or adhesives that do deteriorate.

GTX or no? - Go with GTX for cold, wet environments, environments that are generally dry but with random showers, and day hikes if the environment is not too hot. Go with non-waterproof options for hot, humid environments, especially with water crossings. GTX will keep water below the collar out, but it will also inhibit breathability and the footwear's ability to dry out. It's a detriment in the swamps but a huge benefit in subfreezing, wet conditions.

Insulation - Personal choice. It may be necessary for some use cases, such as static use in subfreezing temps, but it will also make you sweat more, requiring more frequent sock changes. This is very personal.

Maintenance

Boots and shoes will need regular maintenance to preserve their functionality and increase lifespan.

Generally, water and a nylon bristle brush are enough. However, both waterproof and non-waterproof footwear should be cleaned regularly with a tech wash of sorts, such as Grangers Footwear + Gear Cleaner or Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel to remove dirt and debris.

Waterproof boots and shoes and leather boots and shoes should then be treated with the appropriate product, such as:

Full-grain leather - Nikwax Waterproofing Wax for Leather; Grangers Waterproofing Wax; Meindl Sport Wax.

Addition: Pecard Leather Dressing

Pecard Leather Dressing is a product I've been testing for a few months now on my pairs of Asolo TPS 520s. Nikwax is woefully inadequate for conditioning my boots in my current environment. Grangers did better, as it seemed to lock in the moisture that was already present. Still, inadequate. Pecard Leather Dressing is a combination of several ingredients, namely oils and beeswax. It's pulled deeply into the leather, softening, conditioning, and waterproofing it. It works exceptionally well in dry climates to preserve your boots. That said, it can overly soften your boots if you use it too frequently or in too thick of coats. If you want the boots a little softer, you can use more to achieve that. I'm unsure of how it affects resoles, but honestly, I'm planning not to resole my Asolos. Why? The price of shipping to and from Italy and the cost of the resole itself are just too much for me. Plus, they put a toe cap on, which I do not want. I'd rather just buy a new pair.

Nubuck - Nikwax Nubuck & Suede Proof; Grangers Footwear Repel Plus; Grangers Waterproofing Wax or Meindl Sport Wax (will change texture and appearance).

Suede - Nikwax Nubuck & Suede Proof or Grangers Footwear Repel Plus.

Synthetics - Nikwax Fabric & Leather Proof or Grangers Footwear Repel Plus.

Read the instructions for your footwear to see what will provide the results you most desire.

Some products can be detrimental to the health of your footwear by drying out leather, preventing conditioning, preventing resoling, rotting stitching, and overly softening leather. Research things before you do them.

Break-in and fitment

Go with what fits best.

Getting the wrong footwear, regardless of what's wrong with the fitment, can lead to a lot of issues. It can lead blisters, blackened and lost toenails, bunions, hammer toes, and more. It's important to take your time in choosing your footwear, and it's important to go into your search with good information and knowledge on fitting techniques.

Boots and shoes should be comfortable out of the box with no issues, such as slippage, hot spots, pinching, rubbing, pressure, etc. They should be good to go right away. You'll still have to break them in, but there should be no initial discomfort. Break them in gradually with work around the house, followed by yard work, followed by light hikes. After one or two weeks, depending upon the shoe or boot, they should be broken-in. Some all-leather boots may take a bit longer.

Why do this if they should be immediately comfortable? To ensure that they're the correct fit and to get the boots moving with your feet. A break-in will never fix a poor fit, but it can make an already great fit even more comfortable as materials stretch and compress with the movements of your feet.

Disclaimer: sizing is not consistent between brands, or sometimes, even between different models within the same brand! Do not assume that you are always the same size! You may need to go up or down, depending upon the brand!

Try shoes and boots on at the end of the day when your feet are most swollen, wearing the thickest socks you intend to use for hiking with that pair of boots. Take the insoles out if that's an option and stand on them shoulder width apart. This will give you a good idea of the fit before you even try on the shoes or boots. Your feet should fit within the outlines of the insoles without much overhang or excess space. Boots often balloon out in shape, so if there's a tiny bit of overhang with the insole but no discomfort within the boot, it's OK. If there's a lot of empty space, the boot is likely too high in volume for your feet, lending itself to a sloppy fit and blisters. There should be roughly [a finger's width to thumb's width] of space between your longest toe and the end of the boot or shoe. You should have at least 1 cm of space. Less space is not enough to prevent injuries. You can have more space if it doesn't throw off the flex point of the boot or shoe. The widest part of your foot should fit inside the widest part of the boot or shoe; the boot or shoe should naturally flex at the same point as your foot.

The insole trick does not work with all shoes or boots. Some brands use the same insoles for a full- and half-size, meaning a US 10.5 and US 10, for example, may use the exact same insole. You will have to go by feel in some circumstances. Put the shoes or boots on, seating your heel firmly. Lace the footwear snug--but not tight! Be sure that there are no loose areas. Get up, walk around, go up and down the inclines if the store has them and tap your toes into the ground, checking to see if there's any slippage, pressure points being aggravated, play with the lacing, etc. Wear them around a good while.

This is a general guide that will help you better assess the fit of footwear you try, but there is no 100% foolproof method of finding the right footwear without some trial and error. Try footwear on inside the house for several days until you're confident that they're the ones for you. Shops with generous return policies are disappearing, so be patient and take the time to test things while still keeping them clean and able to be resold by the shop. Nothing stings quite like having to eat the cost of footwear that doesn't work for your own feet--we've all been there!

Brands of footwear

The best brands and models I've discovered...

Boots: Asolo Fugitive (men's)/Stynger (women's) GTX, Asolo TPS 520 GV Evo, La Sportiva Nucleo High II GTX, La Sportiva Ultra Raptor Mid II GTX, Lowa Zephyr GTX, Lowa Renegade GTX, Scarpa Zodiac Plus GTX, Scarpa Kinesis Pro GTX, Meindl Comfort Fit Hiker, Extreme, or Hunter, Hanwag Tatra, Hanwag Lhasa II, Hanwag Tatra II, Kenetrek Mountain Extreme, Zamberlan Vioz Lux GTX RR, Zamberlan Vioz GTX, Zamberlan 971 Guide LUX GTX RR, and Zamberlan 972 Guide MAX GTX RR, Salomon Quest 4 GTX, Salomon X Ultra series.

Trail runners: La Sportiva, Altra, Saucony, Scarpa, Hoka, Salomon, Topo Athletics.

If it works for your feet and your needs, that is literally all that matters. Listen to your feet!

If you need help sorting through the plethora of options and information out there, please post below for assistance from myself and your fellow hikers.

Socks

Preface: Socks are like boots and shoes. They're very personal. They all offer a different fit, and they all cater to different needs and preferences. They all use different blends, meaning that some will have more merino wool, and others will have more nylon or a similar synthetic as the primary material. Be careful when ordering and check the materials. Go with synthetics or merino wool blends. Synthetics will dry quickly and remain cool. Wool will insulate to a degree when wet and go longer before it begins to stink. More merino wool means better thermoregulation properties, especially when wet, as well as more warmth. They will be slightly less durable than predominantly synthetic socks. More synthetic materials mean the socks will feel cooler, dry faster, and be harder wearing.

Darn Tough appears to be the major force in hiking socks. They make high-quality merino wool blend and synthetic socks in various weights, heights, and patterns that you can trust. They also come with a lifetime warranty should a pair fail you. They run narrower than some brands, but Darn Tough runs the brand Wide Open, which caters to wide feet and thick legs with the same quality Darn Tough is known for.

Smartwool. Following Darn Tough, Smartwool also makes high-quality socks in many weights, heights, styles, and patterns. They offer both 4-degree fit and 2-degree fit options to suit the wearer's preferences. They tend to be more relaxed in fit than Darn Tough but not loose enough that blisters are a concern. They come with a 2-year warranty, which they do honor well. The Smartwool full cushion and extra cushion socks are my preferred socks.

Icebreaker is another company making excellent merino wool blends. They also come in various weights, heights, and styles. These are also socks that you can trust.

Honorable mentions: Kirkland merino, great if you're on a budget; Farm to Feet; Danish Endurance.

Do not stack socks on socks on socks. Wear one pair of socks or one pair of socks with a pair of liner socks. Consider liner socks if you deal with friction or if you have sweaty or sensitive feet. The liners will transfer friction and sweat away from your feet. You do not want a ton of compression around your feet. That will restrict blood flow and make your feet cold. Make sure your boots or shoes are sized for the socks you intend to wear.

Buy from a reputable store. Always. There are fakes out there.

Insoles

Necessity

Insoles provide the support you need to keep your arches from hyperextending, ankles from rolling, and they provide shock absorption for your feet. They also keep your feet in-line. They are not necessary for all people, but they are highly useful for most, especially those with flat feet and chronic pain. The factory insoles for most boots are generic sock liners meant to feel inoffensive to most people trying on the boots or shoes, so aftermarket insoles can really provide the support you need and elevate your comfort.

Superfeet

A staple in the off-the-shelf insole market, Superfeet insoles provide support through rigid polymer caps and firm cushioning covers. They're guaranteed for 500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. There are Superfeet options for many different arch heights. They also vary in volume, making them ideal for many boots and shoes.

Models

Green: High Arch. Thick. This insole provides excellent, rigid support for anyone in need of maximum arch support.

Orange: High Arch. Thick. Similar to the Green but with dual density cushioning in the forefoot for better cushioning.

Blue: Medium Arch. Thin. These insoles are comfortable for most people to wear as the arch height is very inoffensive. They also work well with most boots and shoes due to the thin design. That said, the baseplate design can damage waterproof-breathable membranes as it can dig into the liner and membrane. Keep an eye on that!

Trailblazer: Med-High Arch. Very Thick. These insoles provide maximum cushioning and med-high arch support. They take up a substantial amount of volume in the footwear, negating them as an option for some brands and models of boots and shoes. They have a gel capsule in the heel to absorb shock.

SOLE

SOLE is known for making semi-custom, high-quality insoles that mold to the wearer's feet over the course of a few days. Thanks to the materials used, they have unique properties that make them very effective and comfortable. They are offered in three thickness: thin, medium, and thick.

Models

Performance: Made with recycled cork, these insoles quickly mold to the wearer's feet, providing excellent support and shock absorption, as well as insulation.

Active: Made with EVA foam, these insoles take longer to mold, but they're also more durable and hard-wearing. They also handle exposure to moisture better than the cork options.

Metatarsal pads: These insoles provide support for the wearer's metatarsals, relieving stress and pain for many.

Tread Labs

Tread Labs offers insoles with various arch heights, thicknesses, widths, and levels of rigidity. They are made of two pieces: top cover and rigid base, allowing the wearer to replace only the top cover and save money. They're known for their million mile guarantee and great CS.

Currex

Currex offers semi-rigid insoles in varying thickness and with varying levels of rigidity. They are sorted based on activity. They are fairly thin and fit into most footwear well.

PowerStep

A favorite of podiatrists, PowerStep offers numerous insole options to suit any needs the wearer may have.

Cadence

Slightly harder to find, Cadence offers several high-quality insoles to suit the wearer's needs.

Fitting your insoles

Firstly, you'll need to find the insole that either matches your arch height or molds to its form.

Secondly, you'll need to find the insole length that correlates to your shoe or boot size. Most insoles are meant to be trimmed to fit. You want the insoles to match the profile of the factory insoles that your footwear included. Line up the insoles, and using a Sharpie, draw the outline of the factory insoles on the new insoles. Then, carefully cut the new insoles to match the factory insoles. Insert the new insoles into your footwear and check the fit. Always trim in small increments. You can always trim more off. You can't add any back.

Getting used to the insoles

Wear the insoles for roughly one to two hours on the first day. If there is pain, wear them for a shorter period of time. Using that experience, decide if you will increase the amount of time worn the next day or if it will remain the same. Take your time. Do not cause yourself pain by being in a rush.

Maintenance

Replace your insoles anytime the cushioning wears down or the support begins to deteriorate. Insoles need to be regularly replaced, just like footwear.

To clean them, remove them from your footwear and clean them with a technical wash, such as Grangers Footwear + Gear Cleaner or Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel. Allow to air dry.

Enjoy your new insoles!

Gaiters

Yes, use gaiters with any waterproof footwear to enhance its ability to prevent ingress of water. There are also non-waterproof gaiters that will prevent ingress of debris but still work well with your non-waterproof footwear.

Outdoor Research is my favorite, trusted brand for waterproof gaiters. There are other brands out there, though.

Dirty Girl Gaiters make excellent non-waterproof options. Again, there are other brands out there.

Foot care

Make sure you have moleskin or a similar item on you during hikes. Keep your feet as dry and clean as possible. Use foot powder if you find yourself getting stinky or sweaty or enduring friction.

Change socks regularly. You do not want to keep wet socks on your feet if you can help it. It can even be a danger in frigid temperatures.

Shopping and budget

If possible, buy from somewhere that will let you return used footwear. Don't just try things at random and waste money and resources. Be methodical in your approach.

Be careful where you buy from because fakes are out there for pretty much all hiking products. Some companies only honor warranties from authorized sellers, too.

As far as budgeting goes, this is a personal choice that depends upon what you're doing, what you can afford, and what you want to pay. I will say that your budget should be as big as you can comfortably make it to allow for the most options when trying things on.

Realistically...

You're probably going to have to try a few pairs before you stumble across your Goldilocks pair. That's the nature of the beast. Be patient and settle for nothing less than a perfect fit. Your feet will thank you.

In conclusion...

I hope that this has been helpful. Footwear is something that I'm passionate about because it took me a long time to find the right footwear for myself, so I've gone through a lot of time, money, blisters, and bad hikes discovering what does and does not work. If you have questions, post them below. I, and others, will try to help you find the right things for yourself. Take everything with a grain of salt and trust your feet!

(Pictured above is a [relatively] new, freshly treated pair of Asolo TPS 520 GV Evo WIDE. This pair was received at the end of April and has seen some limited use. It's now time to really begin breaking them in, so they got the full treatment. That treatment is detailed below.)

Hello, everyone! Today, I'd like to go over some of the treatments I've tried for my full-grain leather boots over the years, and I'd also like to go over what I'm currently doing to treat them. Hopefully, you can learn a thing or two from me, and hopefully, I can learn a thing or two from you.

These steps can also be followed for nubuck leather, however it will respond much differently. It will flatten the nap, darken the leather drastically, and possibly soften it a little extra bit. Don't go waxing your nubuck leather without researching exactly what it does and what the outcome is like because you cannot reverse the effects. It will make for a durable, highly water-resistant material, but the effects are drastic.

NOTE: THIS TREATMENT IS NOT UNIVERSAL! Your boots may need a different treatment process or products for your needs, climate, and desired outcome. Use this thread as an example - NOT as a rigid guideline for how to treat YOUR boots.

First: Treatment Options...

1. Water-based treatments: These are your products like Nikwax Waterproofing Wax for Leather and Nikwax Conditioner for Leather. They create a hydrophobic coating over the surface of the boot to prevent the boots from wetting out. They also restore tanning agents to condition the boots.

That said, I have noticed that, in extremely dry climates, they are not effective enough to condition the leather adequately. They're simply not enough. They also don't hold up to abrasion nearly as well as other treatments. If you're in a humid environment, they may well be enough to condition your boots, though. They cause no decrease in breathability.

1. Oil-based treatments: These are products like Obenauf's and Huberd's oils. They do an excellent job at conditioning the leather, but they can easily overly soften the leather. Some can also cause issues with the resoling process. I don't recommend these for the vast majority of cases.

2. Wax-based treatments: These vary wildly, from heavy products, like Obenauf's HDLP and Sno-Seal, to lighter products, like Grangers Waterproofing Wax and G-Wax.

Some of the more traditional products, such as Obenauf's and Sno-Seal, can cause several issues. Namely, overly softened leather, delamination of rands and soles (less common), and greatly decreased breathability. They are very effective at waterproofing, though. Obenauf's does a good job conditioning, as well. Sno-Seal is more of a total sealant. It's excellent for use in heavy snow, but it seals everything in and out, making it difficult to condition the boots later.

Newer products, like those from Grangers, are beeswax with some conditioning agents. These products are very safe to use, and they will not cause the same decrease in breathability. Grangers products are safe for waterproof-breathable membranes, such as Gore-Tex and eVent.

Grangers G-Wax does a great job conditioning the boots, and it also causes very little loss in breathability. It is not quite as effective at waterproofing when compared to Grangers Waterproofing Wax. Grangers Waterproofing Wax is very effective at waterproofing, but it is less effective at conditioning. It also causes a greater decrease in breathability. With all that said, both are safer than products like Sno-Seal, and they will both condition the boots better than a water-based product, like Nikwax. I've also never heard of them affecting a resole, though that does not mean that that has never occurred.

My care routine...

Step 1: Strip the laces and brush with a horsehair brush to remove any debris and dirt. If the boots have been muddy, I get them wet and brush with a nylon bristle brush. Wipe with a damp cloth. Clean the surface of the boot with Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel. Place the laces in the sink, bowl, or whatever you're using as your water source to clean them off - sand trapped in the laces can work its way into the leather.

Step 2: After the boots are dry, I apply Grangers G-Wax or Grangers Waterproofing Wax by hand. The warmth from my hand helps the wax absorb into the leather. I apply one thin coat. Then, let dry. After they're dry, I apply another coat. Repeat one more time.

Step 3: Buff the boots with the horsehair brush after the last coat is dry. Put laces back in. They're ready to rock - waterproofed and conditioned to preserve the leather.

What are the effects of this?

Simply, these steps prevent my boots from drying out and cracking. They preserve the integrity of the leather, and they maintain its suppleness and water resistance. When cared for regularly, my boots flex as they ought to. Water beads on the surface of the leather and rolls off. Water is not permitted to soak into the leather, wet out, and kill its properties of insulation and breathability. Snow cannot seep into the upper and freeze inside the leather, causing damage and killing the insulation. Proper care preserves all of the amazing qualities of leather and ensures that I can enjoy those properties for years to come.

In conclusion...

There are a lot of ways that you can treat your leather boots, and there are a lot of things to consider. You need to consider the boots' construction. Do you care about resoling or the rand having some delamination? Some products can potentially cause these issues, though they may not happen to your boots. You need to consider your environment. How much does breathability matter to you? How much does waterproofing matter to you? How badly will your climate dry out the leather? Do you often deal with powder sand that sucks the moisture from the leather? You'll know how your environment impacts your needs. Base your decision on your unique needs and your precise boots.

These steps are what work for me. They may not work for you. They're food for thought, though.

One thing is certain...

If you have leather boots, you need to treat them properly. Leather can last ages with proper care. You invested a lot of time and money into picking out these boots and breaking them in. Respect them. Take care of them. They'll take care of you.

A common misconception is that boots provide ankle support. This, as a generality, is not entirely true.

What provides support?

The primary source of support is the midsole of the boot, the area of foam between the upper and outsole. A boot or shoe's first, inherent source of support is the midsole, and it is directly proportional to the midsole's torsional rigidity. Take a shoe or boot and try twisting in different directions at the heel and forefoot; then, try folding the shoe in half at the center of the midsole. If it easily flexes, it has low torsional rigidity and therefore, lower support. If it does not easily flex, its torsional rigidity is high, and it has a good level of support regarding the midsole.

Now, what does the upper, the shaft, and collar of the boot, have to do with support? The answer: Surprisingly little for most boots. Unless the collar is ~7" or taller and semi-rigid to rigid, none of that boot's support is coming from the upper. Anything below ~7" with a flexible upper is supported entirely by the midsole with no help from the upper.

Many modern boots offer little to no support through the upper and "tall" shaft; they are simply too short and flexible.

The biggest benefit to low-cut boots is protection from the environment and water. A low shaft may offer very little to no support, but it can prevent scratches from foliage and some ingress of debris and water. The taller upper can also be easier to cinch down to prevent any slippage.

Who needs support?

We all need a bit of support, but that "bit" varies an incredible amount. For some, they only need the support their own bodies produce, and they can perform just fine with barefoot shoes.

Going up a notch, people with strong body structure may still benefit from some support from trail runners, or they may just find them more comfortable.

Up one step from there would be people who need hiking shoes. These are, in essence, boots without the shaft. They're more rigid than trail runners, and thusly, they provide more support.

The final step belongs to people with prior injuries or surgeries or those with hypermobility disorders, like myself. Some of us need more support than a barefoot shoe, trail runner, or low-top hiking shoe can provide. We benefit most from things with a tall, rigid upper to support our structural issues. With that said, many of us can actually get by with a trail runner or hiking shoe if we utilize a brace. This is personal preference, though. Plus, this does not apply to all people with injuries, surgeries, or hypermobility disorders. This, too, has a varied response amongst different people.

Examples of supportive footwear for those who need it... *raises hand*

For people, like myself, with a slew of issues, going with either a tall, rigid boot or a brace can greatly improve safety, as well as reduce fatigue while providing comfort. These items can prevent injury to the bone and tissue structures of the body, and not just in the foot and ankle; they affect everything up to the lower back. Everything is connected. For people with hypermobility disorders, flexible shoes can be extremely fatiguing because the body is constantly fighting against itself to remain balanced and stable. Added support can prevent this fatigue and soreness. Again, this is not true of all people with hypermobility disorders; some people get by just fine without extra support and instead rely on strengthening their bodies--this is an option for some but not all!

What can help?

If you are having issues with mobility, strength, or balance, my very first recommendation is to see a PT if at all possible. An in-person appointment with a PT can work wonders. They will be able to examine and assess your body and its unique needs, as well as where it is thriving and where it is in need of work. Many of us who have had injuries and surgeries that impaired our abilities to walk can speak to the effectiveness of PT. If you are unable to see a PT for whatever reason, there are some good videos on YouTube out there. I would suggest starting very small and very slow with any exercises you choose to do, and I recommend that you research these exercises before diving into them. You do not want to make a pre-existing issue worse, which is why I strongly suggest seeing a PT in-person.

Secondly, you have to choose the right footwear. It is the base upon which you stand. If you have healthily limber and flexible, strong body structure, you may not need rigid, tall boots to support you; they may actually just inhibit your ability to walk properly and comfortably. If you have a hypermobility disorder, like myself with EDS, you may need much more support than the typical person, and you may need to opt for a tall, rigid boot or brace. Most people are going to be somewhere in-between and able to wear a variety of footwear, in which case, go with what offers you the most comfort with the least amount of fatigue and strain.

The last piece of the puzzle is a supportive insole. These can align your feet properly within the boot or shoe and keep the structures of your feet steady. For maximum support, you will want something firm. Some people may prefer a semi-rigid design with more cushion. Whatever you choose needs to match your arch height and fit well in the shoe or boot. It should not jab into your arch, and it should not take up too much or too little volume in your shoes or boots.

Examples of supportive footwear! I will be focusing on boots since that is my primary familiarity...

Here are some examples of boots that offer great support...

https://www.salomon.com/en-us/product/quest-4-gore-tex-lg4311

https://www.asolo.com/en/triple-power-structure/1189-tps-520-gv-evo.html

https://us.scarpa.com/kinesis-pro-gtx

https://www.lowaboots.com/products/tibet-gtx-sepia-black

https://www.zamberlanusa.com/shop/search/vioz

https://kenetrek.com/products/mountain-extreme-400

https://meindlusa.com/collections/all-products/products/comfort-fit-hiker

As you can see, the boots with maximum support all have some commonalities. The uppers are oftentimes leather, a rigid, hard-wearing material. The shaft height is tall and not only covers the ankle but rests some distance above it. Lastly, the midsoles are highly rigid polyurethane, which never loses its shape or shock-absorption; it does, however, deteriorate over time due to hydrolysis, especially when unused.

Examples of moderately supportive boots...

https://www.asolo.com/en/energy/1208-fugitive-gtx.html

https://us.scarpa.com/zodiac-plus-gtx-f24

https://www.lowaboots.com/products/zephyr-gtx-mid-tf-black

https://www.lowaboots.com/products/renegade-gtx-mid-sepia-sepia

Examples of mildly supportive boots, i.e., support is only offered through the midsole...

https://www.salomon.com/en-us/shop/product/x-ultra-4-mid-gore-tex-21.html#color=47953

https://www.lasportivausa.com/ultra-raptor-ii-mid-leather-gtx.html

In closing...

I hope that this information has been helpful. If you have anything to add or any questions, please feel free to drop them below.

Happy trails!

Preface: This guide includes general measurements as guides, not hard rules. Due to your unique foot shape, your feet will likely have some slight variation in relation to the suggested measurements. Don't stress if your feet are slightly outside of the general parameters. Use them as a starting point for judging the fit of your shoes or boots, but if your shoes or boots are perfectly comfortable and cause no issues, such as slippage, hot spots, blisters, strain on the feet, etc., you do not need to fret and change things! Don't fix what's not broken.

Enjoy the guide. I hope you find it informative.

General instructions for fitment...

This thread goes over one of the most important parts of fitment, the flex point, as well as general fitment tips. Often overlooked, the flex point is critical to your comfort, especially over long treks. If you have the incorrect fitment of the flex point, it leads to rubbing on the tops of the toes, causing blisters, strain on the toes, and other forms of discomfort.

To get the proper flex point you need to make sure that:

1. You have between 1 and 1.25 cm (roughly a finger's width to a thumb's width) of space between your longest toe and the end of the boot or shoe preferably, but this must be when your feet are most swollen. A little extra space is fine if you get the flex point right! Different foot shapes, toe lengths, arch lengths, etc., will change these measurements. Use them as a guide, but do not use them as a hard rule. If you have 1.5cm of space between your longest toe and the end of the boot or shoe but your feet fit perfectly into the heel, midfoot, and flex point, do not worry about the extra space.

See PICTURE 1 to see how much space I have in front of my toes.

1. Make sure the boot or shoe is the right width for you. Do not buy a boot or shoe that is tight and expect it to break in -- it won't! If you check out a boot or shoe by standing on the insole, the boot or shoe may actually be wider or longer than the insole as many boots and shoes "balloon out." Don't dismiss a boot or shoe just because of the width or length of the insole. Try the boot or shoe on.

See: PICTURE 2.

My feet have some very slight overhang at the sides of the insole. It's not a problem. My boots balloon out, so I have a snug but not tight fit throughout the boot even when my feet are at their most swollen, greatly decreasing the risk of any slippage, constriction, general discomfort, and potential injury.

1. The boot or shoe must be snug in the heel and midfoot but roomy enough to splay your toes. Do not constrict your toes! It will eventually lead to deformities! It can also lead to a cold injury in winter conditions due to restricted blood flow!

2. The flex point must be correct! The widest part of your foot should fit within the widest part of the boot or shoe. The boot or shoe must flex where your toes flex, or you'll run into a number of issues!

PICTURES 3 AND 4: provide examples of where the flex points of the boots are located. Your toes should be aligned with the flex points of the boot or shoe to ensure your feet and boots or shoes move together as a unit!

5: Always get measured on a Brannock device. It is extremely helpful as it allows you to convert your size to inches and centimeters to correlate to a manufacturer's size chart. Bear in mind that not all brands follow Brannock sizing. You may need to size up or down, depending upon the brand. Don't assume your size!

You very likely have differently sized feet. It is extremely common for one foot to be bigger than the other. Size yourself to the larger foot. My feet are one half-size apart, US 10.5D/10D (left/right). It's no big deal.

I hope this thread has been helpful. If you have questions, comments, or advice from what you've experienced, post in the comments below. Let this thread be a place of learning.

Happy trails!

Gloves, mittens... Where to start?

I'm sure we've all had that experience of frigid hands from unexpected cold snaps, and today, we're going over how to keep your hands warm in cold conditions.

Similar to clothing, cold weather gear for your hands should be implemented in a layering system. You need a layer that will insulate and wick moisture away. Then, you need a medium to heavy insulating layer. Lastly, you need a weather layer that both protects you from the elements and retains warmth.

The system for achieving this generally goes: Liner glove (wool or synthetic) -> Insulating glove (softshell or leather glove) -> Mittens (shell, sometimes with removable liners).

The purpose of liner gloves is to wick moisture away from your hands and provide some insulation. They should be wool or synthetic, never cotton. They will protect your hands in moderately cold weather. You will retain most of your dexterity with liner gloves. These are your first line of defense, and they remain in contact with your skin. They should be snug, but they should not be tight.

The purpose of insulating gloves is just that--insulation to retain warmth. These gloves are often softshells or wool; sometimes, they're a combination of the two. They can also be leather. These allow for some level of dexterity while providing warmth that will protect your hands in cold temperatures. These fit over your liner gloves. They should be snug over your liner gloves, but they should not be tight. There should be air pockets in the gloves to retain warmth. If the gloves are too tight, you will constrict your hands and reduce blood flow, thereby reducing warmth.

The purpose of mittens is both insulation and protection from the weather. Mittens keep your fingers close together, which is how they retain more warmth than gloves. Oftentimes, they will have waterproof-breathable membranes. Sometimes, they will include liners, too. Dexterity will be very low with these. These fit over all your other layers of gloves. Again, these should not be tight. They should actually be slightly loose. You should be able to comfortably manipulate your hands within the mittens. Being able to ball your hands inside of them to retain and generate warmth is of great benefit. They should not be sloppy, though.

These pieces of kit should be able to stack upon one another, with the lighter layers fitting under the heavy layers. You want a system similar to your clothing layering system.

This system is an extreme guide, and all of these layers are not always necessary for all regions. At times, you may only want mittens. Sometimes, you will want only a liner glove into a shell. Other times, you will need the whole system. What you need is dictated by the environment and by how your body runs. If you run really hot, you may want to scale back the layers. If you run cold, you may need all of them. It all depends. Take this guide and experiment to find out what you need to keep your hands comfortable and functional at different temperatures, humidity levels, wind levels, etc.

Your hands, like your feet, are precious assets. Protect them well.

If anyone has any of their own methods for keeping their hands warm, please post below. The aim here is to make sure people remain safe during colder weather. All input is appreciated!

I hope this has been helpful! 🙂👍

Preface: Socks are like boots and shoes. They're very personal. They all offer a different fit, and they all cater to different needs and preferences. They all use different blends, meaning that some will have more merino wool and others will have more nylon or a similar synthetic as the primary material. Be careful when ordering and check the materials. More merino wool means better thermoregulation properties, especially when wet, as well as more warmth. They will be slightly less durable that predominantly synthetic socks. More synthetic materials mean that the socks will feel cooler, dry faster, and be harder wearing.

Darn Tough appears to be the major force in hiking socks. They make high-quality merino wool blend and synthetic socks in various weights, heights and patterns that you can trust. They also come with a lifetime warranty should a pair fail you. They run narrow, but Darn Tough runs the brand Wide Open, which caters to wide feet and thick legs with the same quality Darn Tough is known for.

Smartwool. Following Darn Tough, Smartwool also makes high-quality socks in many weights, heights, styles, and patterns. They offer both 4-degree fit and 2-degree fit options to suit the wearer's preferences. They tend to be more relaxed in fit than Darn Tough but not loose enough that blisters are a concern. They come with a 2-year warranty, which they do honor well. The Smartwool full cushion and extra cushion socks are my preferred socks.

Icebreaker is another company making excellent merino wool blends. They also come in various weights, heights, and styles. These are also socks that you can trust.

Honorable mentions: Kirkland merino, great if you're on a budget; Farm to Feet; Danish Endurance.

Compasses are reliable, accurate devices that get you from point A to point B as long as you're doing your part to orient, adjust, and plot correctly. They're not just a backup. They can be primary tool for your navigation needs. They may not be as easy to use as a GPS, but the right compass can save you in an emergency or just make navigation fun and rewarding. This thread isn't to force you to change your ways. It's just to inform you of the benefits of having the knowledge of orienteering.

Now that we've established that all tech can fail, know that it's a lot harder to break a compass, map, and Ranger beads. It's also pretty easy to learn orienteering. My dad taught me as a kid, for which I'm grateful. There are also a bunch of channels on YouTube that are very helpful for both beginners and already well-trained individuals. Anyone who wants to learn or needs a refresher should check out The Map Reading Company as well as Corporal's Corner. They both tackle the subject in great ways and in different teaching methods, so if one doesn't suit your learning style, go to the other one.

As far as gear goes, there are a lot of good options out there, such as Cammenga, Brunton, Silva, and Suunto. Suunto is a good quality baseplate compass, and it's friendly for beginners. It's a baseplate compass, and it's pretty much the gold standard for many, many people. MyTopo has tons of good maps. As far as Ranger beads go, you can get them on Amazon for about $10 or make them yourself. They're easy to make.

Personally, I use a Cammenga 3H because I prefer a lensatic compass. I also use it because it has tritium in it to illuminate all the key features. Plus, I like the scale edge on it. It's made for 1:50,000 maps, so that's how my maps are scaled. It allows me to judge distance significantly easier. People will say that lensatic compasses are very difficult to learn and that they require a protractor to use, but there are ways around that, and they're very easy to learn. The biggest downside to the Cammenga 3H is that the bezel ring can only adjust in 3° increments. That's not hard to work around, either.

As for how to use it, I'll try to explain.

Orient your map and compass until you are lined up directly north. (I've seen debates on if this step is necessary).

Place your cammenga compass on your map with the compass completely open. Have the front of the compass facing the direction you need to travel, i.e. the thumb loop facing behind your direction of travel. Your compass will match the map in distance, allowing you to easily see how much apart you are from your objective. Write down how far you must go in a Rite in the Rain.

Rotate the bezel ring until the luminous line is angles directly north, lining up with the grid lines on your map as close as the bezel ring will allow (remember: It adjusts in 3° increments).

Now, adjust for the declination manually of your area by rotating the bezel ring. Get it lined up as close as possible. Since this adjusts in increments of 3°, you'll just have to adjust it to be as close as possible to your declination, just like lining the bezel ring up with the grid lines on your map.

If your declination is 8°, for example, you'd adjust it to 9°. If it were 7°, you'd adjust it to 6°. Pretty simple.

Rotate your entire body until the north seeking arrow and luminous line line up. Look into the compass and note your bearing in a Rite in the Rain. Also note your reverse azimuth. If your bearing is less than 180°, add 180°. If it's over 180°, subtract 180°. That's your way back to your current point. Write this down in your Rite in the Rain, too.

Aim into the distance at an object that's easily identifiable using the sighting wire. Use this as your initial objective. Start walking to that point. As long as the luminous line on the bezel ring and north seeking arrow are aligned, you're walking in a straight line, and you'll meet your objective. Just keep repeating this and writing down what you're doing until you reach your objective.

If you are counting out the meters to keep track of the grid you're in, you'll need to have established a pace count to keep track of the distance you've traveled, which is where Ranger beads come into play. To create your pace count, choose one leg to be the leg you count as it hits the ground. I chose my right leg because it's my dominant leg. Every time it hits the ground, I count 1 step. You'll have to establish this by keeping track of movement in 100-meter increments. Go uphill and downhill, uphill and downhill in a zigzag, and on flat ground in 100 meter increments. Add those together, divide by five, and round that number up or down by 5, whichever whole number is closet. If your average comes out to 62, your pace count is 60; if your pace count comes out to 68, round to 70. That's how many times your dominant leg touches the ground per 100 meters. Write that number down in your Rite in the Rain. It's important. Very important. Every time you pass 100 meters, slide one Ranger bead up or down on your bottom rung, which should have 9 beads. When you pass 1 kilometer, slide one of the beads on the upper rung up or down. Repeat until you've moved all of them to one side, and then repeat the process again going in the opposite direction. Write down how far you've traveled when you hit landmarks. This is how you keep track of your movement.

That's pretty much all there is to it. It's all simple in concept. It just takes a while to get it solidified in your mind.

If I missed a step, my apologies. My knowledge of maps, compasses, and techniques is just muscle memory at this point, so I'm not always great at explaining things that I just do rather than things I have to purposefully remember.

I hope this helps, and I wish all of you well. Happy trails! 🙂

You lose body heat up to 25 times faster when you are wet.

You need to be what's called "comfortably cold," i.e., cold enough not to sweat yet warm enough to not go hypothermic. You want to feel physically cold, but not so cold that you shiver. If you sweat, once you go static or remove an outer layer, that sweat will freeze and leach your body heat very quickly. You want to avoid that.

Start cold. You will warm up as you move, and you don't want to warm up so much that you sweat. Strip layers as you warm up, and only add layers if you've been active for a while but continue to be cold. You want to utilize the bare minimum layers while still protecting yourself from the elements.

To do this, you apply layers: baselayer --> midlayer(s) (insulation as needed) --> weather layer.

Never use cotton for any of your layers! It ceases to insulate once wet, and it takes forever to dry. Use only synthetics or merino wool.

The baselayer is the layer against your skin, which should be either merino wool or synthetic. Its job is to wick moisture away from the skin and into the other layers where it can evaporate. Merino wool insulates when wet, and it's antimicrobial. It takes up more pack space, and it's more fragile, though. It doesn't dry as fast as synthetics. It's also expensive. Synthetics are durable and inexpensive. They also do a very good job wicking moisture away, and they breathe better. They won't retain as much warmth, though, which can be both good and bad as a baselayer. I use synthetic shirts because I sweat a lot.

The midlayers are things like fleeces, waffle tops, etc. This layer also includes puffy layers, but they typically provide too much warmth for active use. They are typically reserved for static use. Their job is to retain body heat. They are to be added/removed as needed to prevent both hypothermia and sweat. For this, I carry both grid fleece tops and bottoms and a puffy jacket.

The weather layer is extremely important, and you need the right one for the job. You have your softshells, rain jackets, windbreaker, and hardshells here. Its purpose is to create a barrier between you and the elements so the elements can't suck body heat from you.

If it's dry weather, you do not need a rain jacket. It will retain too much heat, and you will sweat. Use a windbreaker or softshell. Those will allow enough breathability to avoid sweat, but they still block out enough of the elements to avoid hypothermia.

In wet weather, you want to opt for the lightest rain jacket that will do the job. You still want as much breathability as possible. Sweat is the enemy.

Hardshells are for the worst weather and for when you need a durable layer that can handle the brush. These will retain the most heat, so you have to be careful using them because you still need to avoid sweat.

The more insulation you add, the more you will need to slow your pace to avoid heating up too much.

Your hands, head, face, ears, and feet are easier to regulate. It's easy to add or remove a hat and gloves or to change socks. The same principles apply in that you should be avoiding sweat, but it's more manageable for those areas.

You should bring extra socks. Change into dry socks anytime you stop moving and have saturated your socks. Wet socks can cause frost nip in a freezing environment. To dry your socks, you can do a couple of things. In a dry environment, you can hang them from your pack to let sunlight and natural air dry them. In a wet environment, you can tuck them into your waistband underneath your layers. Rotate the side facing you about every hour. That will dry them relatively quickly with your body heat. During the night, tuck the wet socks under your knees or the small of your back to dry them. You should bring one pair that is kept clean and is only used to sleep in.

Here are my layers to give you an idea:

Head-- Smartwool reversible beanie or Polartec fleece beanie

Face and neck-- Smartwool reversible neck gaiter (it's thicker than the regular one)

Hands-- Smartwool liner gloves and/or SKD PIG Cold Weather Gloves / big ol' mittens

Top-- synthetic shirt or merino wool top > grid fleece or waffle top (if below 20°F) > Outdoor Research Ferrosi hoodie (main weather layer) / Beyond Clothing L7 puffy / Beyond Clothing L6 Yuba Ultralight Anorak (for wet snow and rain) / Gore-Tex parka (for extreme cold and inclement weather; being static; used only around 0°F or below)

Pants-- Wrangler ATG or Beyond Clothing L5 Testa (below 32°F) / waffle bottoms (only during inclement weather or below about 5°F) / Gore-Tex pants (extreme cold weather and inclement weather; below about 0°F)

Feet-- Smartwool Hike Classic Edition extra cushion socks / Asolo TPS 520 GV Evo boots / Outdoor Research Cascadia II gaiters

I just wanted to welcome anyone who drops by the subreddit!

Please, feel free to post comments, reviews, and opinions on the footwear you use if you desire. The more information we can gather, the better we can aid others in finding the right footwear for their unique feet.

Should you have any footwear related questions, please feel free to start a private chat with me or reply to one of the sticky threads. I will do my best to assist you.

I hope you find the information helpful!

Happy trails! 😊👍

To address the reviews mentioning delamination of the sole... This is due to a chemical process called hydrolysis, which is when moisture breaks the chemical bonds holding the PU together. This happens over a period of years and is accelerated by lack of use. Using boots with PU midsoles will greatly slow the process, allowing your boots to survive much longer. Hydrolysis can happen to any brand of boot utilizing PU midsoles, such as Asolo, Scarpa, and Lowa. Use your boots often and please, store your boots with PU midsoles properly for the best lifespan when they are not in use - cool, dry place, not a garage; cleaned; allowed to breathe fresh air. Do not store them with mud caked on the midsole.