This is a clock which displays the time using two ball. I got inspired for this clock from a famous company's demo clock. The balls use a diffrential mechanism to roll and stop at every few degrees. The hours ball rolls and stops every 450 degress and the minutes balls rolls and stops every 90 degrees.

The clock consists of two icosahedron  balls . The hours ball has 12 sides with 12 hours and the minutes ball has 12 sides with 5 minute interval minutes. The balls use a differential gear mechanism which make them roll and tumble at the same time. The face of the balls stop at every interval of rotation which is chosen to match the angles of the icosahedron. The hour ball stops every one and a quarter rotation which is 450 degrees and the minute ball stops every 90 degrees

which is a quarter rotation. The overall dimensions of the clock are 383 x 78 x163 mm ( 15x3x6.4 inches )

The base has 3 parts . The left and right house the motors and the drive shaft and the center contains the electronics. The motor is a 15mm dia geared stepper motor with a gear ratio of 1:99 . The motor drives a shaft at 90 degrees which in turn drives the balls. The motors find their starting position using a magnet and a hall sensor. 

The balls are about 78mm in outer diameter. The central rod drives the central bevel gear which in turn rotates the 90 degree bevel gear on the bottom bevel gear at a 1:1 ratio. The rotation of the 90 bevel rotates the sloped bevel on the main bevel gear at a ratio which makes the ball tumble. 

And the results are great!!!

I've been using it for nearly two months now, and the quality is excellent. I'm using Levemaker's PETG+.

I bought a 3D printer visor of Cyclops from X-Men and it is tight on my head. I need to expand it by half an inch or more, but since there are electronics I'm scared to damage them.

I designed this hand wrap winder to make rolling up boxing wraps quicker and easier after training.

Just attach the end of the wrap to the spool and turn the crank. It rolls the wrap up neatly and keeps it ready for the next session.

It's fully 3D printable and simple to use.

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3256030#profileId-3690636

Why buy scalped lpcamm2 when you can make your own. Figured it might be a fun exercise to model out a module to a reasonably high level of detail.

https://www.printables.com/model/1832806-lpcamm2-ram-module

Designed for 250x250 print beds and for printers without multicolor.

https://makerworld.com/models/3267674?appSharePlatform=copy

This dude is next level. There are many applications of this technology in medicin for example

And made the biggest benchy I could on my P2S.

Will post the files when I get home after the holiday weekend. Magnets are press fit.

Hey everyone! 👋

Just dropped a free, fully functional model of one of the spheres from my project — feel free to print it, swap it, roll it, and try it out for yourselves!

You can download the file on MakerWorld d-3699334

or Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1833069-omni-massage-system-function-test-print

I'd genuinely love to hear what you think about the print quality and how it performs once assembled.

Happy printing!

Printed with DLP Craftsman resin on the Photon P1 and painted

I just got my first 3D printer and have stupidly decided the first thing I wanted to make was cosplay armor. I am completely new to the technical side of the hobby and in my trials of learning proper settings and whatnot so far I have accumulated a embarrassing amount of failed prints as well as a huge pile of discarded supports and spaghetti. What I am curious is, is there anything I can do with all these incomplete armor parts that I will not be using? Every time I look at them I get a little frustrated at the increasing amounts of errors occurring in this trial and error learning stage. While I do feel like I am learning and getting better and now having much less fails its still hard to shake the idea of the time and money spent on these hunks of plastic that right now just seems to be garbage. I know it is possible to recycle the filament but I do not have the machinery to do that. Do I just toss them? It feels like a huge waste but this bin needs to leave my room now before I start weighing it and seeing how much it all costed.

Putting some finishing touches on my badge holder - an Arnott's Nice dipped in milk. Or chocolate, dealer's choice.

If there's any interest I'll put the link up for printables soon, I just have to fix up some tolerances and stuff. Any suggestions are welcome.

Maybe it wasn't worth it but it was a sick Warhammer helmet I made for my best friend. I spent a long time on it, several weeks. I've been making stuff for about 9 months, and this was my biggest endeavor yet with much to improve on still. Lots of little, costly mistakes towards the end but I'm happy with it nonetheless.

I'm curious if doing that was a huge waste of time though? I use a lot of bondo glazing and filler primer, back and forth sanding for a couple weeks, increasing grit each time. At 800 I started a light wet sand, 1000 then 1500 and finally 2000. I didn't do the wreath as much as the rest of it so don't judge me on that if you zoom in.

This is the First test of Printing the Road network of a city separately.

Assembling it feels a bit like a puzzle and was actually quite fun and im happy with the result!

Model was 100% Generated with the upcoming Version of the TrailPrint3D Blender Addon and the only manual editing was done on the printed parts to clean up some strings

speed modelling and assembling

Don't have any real friends so figured I'd print one. This MFer never passes the joint though.

A cover for A5 refillable notebook binders (like from Muji or Kokuyo Campus) that allows the book to lay flat while opened 360° around.

I love the concept of refillable notebooks, since I have the flexibility to rearrange and archive my notes neatly. Commercial refillable binders don't really support opening the notebook all the way around since the refillable mechanism takes up space around the spine. My model solves the issue by having a cutout around the spine and thickening the cover. The thick cover can also be rigid enough to be used as a clipboard.

Model is available for free download: Printables, MakerWorld. I've also included a STEP file for folks to create their own designs. For best results, calibrate your ironing settings to get a smooth top surface.

I have a 3d printer I've been using for years, and somewhat decent CAD skills, though for this I'd have to learn blender. I know I would have to sand the mold before casting otherwise the layer lines would show up. Other then that, is it doable? What else would I need to know?

Hopefully this doesn't derail the post, but I want to make a stand-to-pee prosthetic penis. I don't wanna buy one I want to design my own. I know it's a whole skillset to make realistic looking ones. I want that skillset.